Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
